2021 Saint-Émilion Grand Cru: A Truly Elegant Expression
- arnaud compas
- Feb 5
- 3 min read
Updated: Feb 12
I've been longing for Saint-Émilion, and this is the one we’ve been waiting for—the 2021 vintage is not to be missed.
2021 Saint-Émilion: A Vintage of Mosaic Expression – We've Fallen for It
The 2021 Saint-Émilion vintage is a remarkable moment for the region—a year that embraces a philosophy akin to Burgundy, celebrating the intricate mosaic of terroirs within Saint-Émilion Grand Cru. This is a time when vibrant precision and the individuality of each vineyard have come to the forefront, marking a magnificent but profound shift in how Saint-Émilion wines could be perceived. It's a unique chance to rekindle a deep appreciation for this extraordinary terroir.
At Last, a Vintage Forged by Nature
We took from our conversation with the proprietors at the En Primeur tasting that the 2021 growing season was far from straightforward. April’s devastating frost, coupled with a humid early summer that invited downy mildew, made vineyard management a masterclass in resilience. Cooler temperatures slowed ripening, and the promise of the vintage teetered on the brink. Then came August and September, offering much-needed warmth that allowed late-ripening varieties, particularly Cabernet Franc, to reach their potential.
This vintage wasn’t crafted in the winery; it was born in the vineyard. Every decision, from canopy management to precise harvest timing, shaped the final wines—a rare alignment of intuition and craftsmanship.
A New Chapter for Saint-Émilion
The wines of 2021 are unlike the opulent, concentrated offerings of recent years. Instead, they reflect a more individual, vibrant style—one that speaks of place and time with clarity. There’s a sense of tension and ripeness here, as if the wines were whispering the secrets of their soils.
Aromatic Beauty: The bouquet is delicate, with red berries, floral undertones, and subtle hints of spice—a freshness that echoes the cool vintage, allowing an impressionistic touch.
Silky and a Sense of Place: On the palate, the wines are wholesome, with fine white tannins, vibrant drive, and moderate alcohol levels. They offer energy over heft, sophistication over power.
Blend Dynamics: Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon have played leading roles this year, stepping up where Merlot faltered due to coulure and mildew. The result? Wines with structure, lift, and an aromatic mosaic.
Ranking My Favourites
From an overall tasting of 30 wineries, the 2021 vintage in Saint-Émilion is an opportunity for reconnecting with customers and instilling in them a true sense of joy. While the quality across the board is inspiring, certain estates stood out more than others in my personal tastings. Here’s the original lineup, ranked from most attractive to very attractive:
This estate delivered a stunning wine that captures the essence of the vintage. Its vibrant red fruit, silky tannins, and aromatic complexity made it an absolute standout. A perfect example of finesse meeting structure, and a true expression of terroir.
Château Boutisse impressed with its limestone-driven precision. The balance between freshness and depth was remarkable, with a sense of minerality that elevated the wine. A thoughtful, restrained effort that resonated deeply.
A favourite, Faugères showcased the vintage’s elegance with a wine that balances richness and lift. Its layered complexity and refined structure make it a strong contender for cellaring, but it’s already showing beautifully now.
Biodynamic farming seems to have paid off in spades here. Fonplégade’s 2021 wine is pure, vibrant, and focused, with floral aromatics and a lovely balance of red fruit and acidity.
This boutique estate crafted a wine that feels deeply personal, with a lighter but more expressive profile. Its purity, bright berry notes, and understated elegance make it a wine that stays with you.
A classic Saint-Émilion that leaned into the vintage’s fresher style. Laroze offered a wine with approachable charm, silky tannins, and an effortless balance. Ideal for reconnecting with elegant Saint Emilion
Despite its smaller production, Croix de Labrie produced a wine with finesse and focus. The influence of Cabernet Franc added brightness and aromatic lift, resulting in exceptionally exciting wines and simply a great drink.
Pressac's hillside vineyards infused vibrancy and energy into its 2021 release, offering bright freshness, ripeness, and clean red-orange fruit and spices.
Laroque is an emerging star, with its 2021 wine showcasing delightful minerality and vibrant red fruit nuances, accompanied by a lovely tension and fresh finish.
Personal Takeaway
The 2021 vintage is a joy and a true opportunity for those vineyards with a customer base that is expanding beyond their reach—true wine lovers who open bottles and share. It’s a welcoming break from blockbuster vintages that often fulfill a self-prophecy, instead offering a constellation of styles filled with emotion and fragility in winemaking. Each of these estates contributed something unique to the story of the vintage, but for me, Château La Confession’s vibrant, driven, and underlying fresh depth expression captured the heart of what made 2021 such a wonderful year.
By Arnaud Compas
Comments