Walter Massa: The Farmer Who Brought Timorasso Back to Life

A Journey to the Heart of Colli Tortonesi

Nestled in the rolling hills of Colli Tortonesi, in southeastern Piedmont, lies the small village of Monleale. This is the land of Walter Massa—a region where the vines weave through the undulating landscape, basking in the Nebbia and drawing strength from the ancient limestone-rich soils. Though Piedmont is renowned for its reds, this is where Timorasso, an almost-forgotten white grape, has been given a second life. And no one has done more to champion it than Massa.

On Friday, 29th January 2025, alongside Michael Palij MW, I had the extraordinary privilege to sample Walter Massa’s wines and listen to the man himself. The setting was intimate, the air thick with the scent of fermenting must, the energy crackling with the stories of a grape reborn. Walter and Michael go way back—so far back, in fact, that Michael was likely among the first to see in Walter something few others did. He recognised his potential and began bringing his wines to the UK while Massa was starting to recover and learn to understand the nuances of this remarkable grape. Their bond, built on a shared understanding of wine’s ability to tell a story, has played a crucial role in Timorasso’s rise from obscurity to global recognition.

Walter Massa: The Farmer Who Reshaped Timorasso and Barbera

Walter Massa is not just a winemaker—he’s a storyteller, a risk-taker, and a visionary who saw greatness in a forgotten grape and brought it back to life. He single-handedly revived Timorasso, a once-lost white variety from Piedmont, and redefined Barbera, elevating it from an everyday table wine to a bottle with depth, structure, and longevity. His wines are bold yet refined, traditional yet innovative, and every sip tells the story of a winemaker who refused to follow the rules.

Timorasso: A White Wine with a Red’s Soul

Derthona 2023

The essence of Massa’s vision, Derthona is Timorasso at its most complete—structured, mineral-driven, and built for longevity. The nose is opulent and layered, revealing ripe stone fruit, citrus zest, apricot, and wildflowers, with a savoury undertone adding intrigue. On the palate, it is both voluminous and voluptuous, its rich, textured body enhanced by extended élevage sur lie, which brings depth and a supple, almost silky weight. A firm mineral backbone provides tension, guiding the wine from its bold, energetic opening to a more honeyed notes finish.

Piccolo Derthona 2023

Timorasso, Piccolo Derthona offers a refined yet generous expression, where ripe lemon and layered green apple unfold with natural vibrancy. A refined mineral core lends precision, while delicate herbal nuances weave through the palate, adding depth. The texture is expansive yet finely balanced, leading to a lingering finish with a whisper of honeyed warmth, bringing subtle richness without excess.

Costa del Vento 2022

A single-vineyard Timorasso with a clear sense of place, Costa del Vento is all about precision and energy. Aromas of white flowers, crushed limestone, seashells, and citrus peel create a layered and mineral-driven profile. The palate balances a saline edge with a weighty, textured feel, giving the wine both finesse and quiet power.

Sterpi 2022

A truly captivating wine, Sterpi is all about tension, freshness, and texture. Tight and restrained at first, it carries the vibrancy of a young Riesling, with hints of ripe orchard fruit, toasted nuts, and wet stone. As it opens, its depth becomes more apparent, revealing a richer, more layered profile. A fine mineral core runs through the palate, balancing its generosity with precision, while the finish lingers with a subtle saline edge and a touch of spice, leaving a lasting impression.

Montecitorio 2022

Timorasso at its most complete. Montecitorio is rich yet vibrant, balancing honeyed stone fruit, saline depth, and a faint wisp of smoke. It doesn’t demand attention but instead speaks with quiet confidence, its layered complexity unfolding with time—an assured wine that will only grow.

Barbera: Strength, Elegance, and a New Identity

Monleale 2015

This is no ordinary Barbera. Monleale is rich, structured, and built to age. Dark cherry, plum, and warm spices shape its expressive nose, while the palate balances freshness with depth—like a Barbera that has learned the patience of Nebbiolo. A gentle drift of micro-oxidation introduces delicate tertiary notes, adding warmth and complexity. Voluminous and wholesome, it unfolds with time, gaining even greater depth and intrigue.

Monleale 2019

Borderline perfect in its drinkability, this wine is a study in balance—silky, rich, and impeccably textured. Red berries, forest floor, and a hint of gentle curry leaves intertwine with bright acidity within it silky texture, giving it both energy and depth. undeniably structured, with a superb confidence that suggests it will only grow more fascinating with time.

Bigolla 2012

Barbera, but with a new perspective. Bigolla is deep and full of character, with black fruit, leather, porcini mushrooms, and earthy richness. The tannins have started to soften but still ask for time, supported by a superb structure that feels both architectural and refined. This is Barbera with depth and presence—built to evolve, revealing more with every year. A masterpiece

Sentieri 2023

Sentieri is a vibrant expression of Barbera, bursting with juicy raspberry, cherry, and a subtle savoury edge—hints of salami and a touch of brooding dark complexity. Lifted and expressive, it strikes a perfect balance between immediacy and depth. A truly remarkable wine—already beautifully harmonious, captivating, and effortlessly charming. Simply a joy to drink.

Walter Massa’s Approach: No Rules, Just Great Wine

• Screwcap Advocate: Massa abandoned corks in favor of screwcaps, believing they better preserve freshness and longevity. Some called it controversial—he calls it common sense.

• Innovation Meets Tradition: Always forward-thinking, he has even embedded NFC chips in bottle closures, bringing wine and technology together in a way few have dared.

• Quality Over Bureaucracy: Massa refuses to be constrained by official classifications, letting the wine speak for itself. If it’s good, people will know—it doesn’t need a label to prove it.

  
  

  

  
  

Why Walter Massa’s Wines Matter

Walter Massa isn’t just making wine—he’s making a statement. His Timorasso proves that white wines can be just as sophisticated, structured, and long-lived as reds. His Barbera defies expectations, showing the world that this grape has layers waiting to be explored.

Massa’s wines are not just drinks; they are experiences. They reward curiosity, and challenge perceptions. They are wines that tell a story—not just of a grape or a vineyard, but of a man who refused to let tradition stand in the way of possibility.

For those who want wines that make you stop, think, and savour the moment, Walter Massa’s bottles aren’t just an option. They are essential.

Distributed in Uk by Wine Traders

by Arnaud Compas